Welcome to the International Peugeot 309 Owners Club!

  • Sponsors


  • Sponsors

PEUGEOT GTI ENGINE REMOVAL

Changed your clutch, removed the engine? Let us know the pitfalls and what to watch out for

PEUGEOT GTI ENGINE REMOVAL

Postby jord294 » Wed Jul 09, 2008 2:46 pm

HERE IS A BRIEF DESCRIPTION ABOUT THE REMOVAL, OF BOTH ENGINE AND GEARBOX, FROM EITHER A 205 GTI OR 309 GTI.

THIS IS MY CHOSEN METHOD, BECAUSE I FIND IT A LOT EASIER.

THE ONLY DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE 205 AND THE 309 IS THAT, YOU WILL PROBABLY HAVE TO REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR AND THE POWER STEERING PUMP, FOR CLEARANCE WHEN DROPPING THE ENGINE AND GEARBOX TOGETHER.

IF AT ALL POSSIBLE, BEFORE YOU GET READY TO REMOVE THE ENGINE. PARK THE CAR, WITH PREFERABLY MORE SPACE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE (about half the cars width again). THIS MAKES REMOVING THE ENGINE AND GEARBOX THROUGH THE N/S WHEEL ARCH, A WHOLE LOT EASIER.

HERE GOES:

MAKE SURE THE HAND BRAKE IS ON !

THE FIRST JOB IS TO UNDO THE DRIVESHAFT NUTS. I FIND THIS EASIER TO DO WHEN CAR IS ON ALL WHEELS. I ALSO SLACKEN THE FRONT WHEEL BOLTS.
JACK THE FRONT WHEELS UP, REMOVE WHEEL BOLTS, TAKE OFF WHEELS AND REMOVE CENTRE CAPS, REMOVE ‘R’ CLIPS AND CASTLE TOP WASHERS (if fitted), YOU MAY JUST HAVE STAKED DRIVESHAFT NUTS.
PUT THE FRONT WHEELS BACK ON ONLY USING 2 BOLTS FOR EACH WHEEL (hand tight will do), AND PUT THE CAR BACK ON ALL 4 WHEELS.

I THINK THE SOCKET YOU NEED TO UNDO THE NUTS IS 36mm. IT COULD BE DIFFERENT. BUT WHICHEVER SIZE SOCKET IT IS, THE SOCKET WILL FIT THROUGH THE CENTRE OF THE WHEEL. UNDO ANTI-CLOCKWISE JUST A COUPLE OF TURNS UNTIL NUT FEELS SLACK. AFTER UNDOING BOTH SIDES, JACK FRONT OF CAR UP AS HIGH AS YOU CAN, AND PUT SUITABLE AXLE STANDS UNDERNEATH THE REAR PART OF THE FRONT SUBFRAME.

I USUALLY PUT THEM UNDERNEATH THE MOUNTING BOLTS FOR THE REAR OF THE SUBFRAME

REMOVE WHEELS, AND DRIVESHAFT NUTS.

IF YOUR NOT SURE ON WHAT CAME FROM WHERE, BUY SOME SANDWICH BAGS AND EITHER PUT PARTS IN THE BAGS AND LABEL, OR PUT MASKING TAPE ON AND WRITE ON THAT. ALWAYS HELPS WITH PHOTOS TOO
SO NOW I’M GOING TO LIST IN ORDER THE WAY I WOULD GO ABOUT REMOVING EVERYTHING.


1. DRAIN THE GEARBOX OIL, AND THE RADIATOR COOLANT
2. REMOVE THE PLASTIC SIDE PANELS FRM INSIDE THE FRONT WHEEL ARCHES (IF YOU HAVE THEM)
3. REMOVE THE BOTTOM WISHBONE BOLTS ON BOTH SIDES
4. UNDO THE 2 11mm NUTS ON THE BOTTOM ENGINE MOUNTING (THE ONES THAT HOLD THE CENTRE BEARING FOR THE DRIVERSIDE DRIVESHAFT)
5. WHEN UNDONE, BUT NOT REMOVED, ROTATE EACH ONE 180°
6. PUSH DOWN ON THE WISHBONE, AND IT SHOULD DROP FROM THE HUB (it can be a bit fiddly, and you may need a pry-bar)
7. ONCE THE WISHBONES HAVE BEEN REMOVED FROM BOTH HUBS, BOTH THE DRIVESHAFTS CAN BE PULLED OUT OF THE GEARBOX. THE N/S SHOULD BE EASY. THE O/S MAY BE A LITTLE TRICKIER, AND YOU MIGHT HAVE TO GET A HAMMER AND A THIN BLUNT PUNCH TO PERSUADE THE CENTRE BEARING FROM THE BOTTOM ENGINE MOUNT. YOU WILL NEED TO KNOCK TOWARDS THE O/S
8. REMOVE THE EXHAUST DOWNPIPE FROM THE FLANGE ON THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
9. PRISE OFF THE GEAR LEVER ROD (the one that goes to the gearbox from the ‘L’ shaped bracket)
10. REMOVE THE SPEEDO CABLE (it is held in by a rubber pin)
11. REMOVE THE NUT AND BOLT FROM THE BOTTOM ENGINE MOUNT FORK, AND REMOVE THE FORK FROM THE SUB FRAME
12. WHEN LOOKING INTO O/S WHEEL ARCH, REMOVE THE JUBILEE CLIP ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE METAL WATER PIPE, AND THE JUBILEE CLIP ON THE OTHER END OF THE RUBBER HOSE.

CHANCES ARE YOU MAY NEED TO BUY A NEW METAL WATER PIPE ALONG WITH OTHER HOSES, PIPES OR GASKETS WHEN FITTING THE OTHER ENGINE

13. WORKING FROM THE TOP OF THE ENGINE, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND REMOVE FROM ENGINE BAY. REMOVE THE THROTTLE CABLE, THE FUEL PIPE WHICH GOES TO THE FUEL RAIL AND THE FUEL HOSE WHICH GOES TO THE BACK OF THE FUEL REGULATOR
14. REMOVE THE AIR FILTER AND THE INTAKE HOSES (these include the 2, which connect to the oil filler cap)
15. REMOVE BOTH THE AIR FLOW METER AND ITS MOUNTING BRACKET AND DISCONNECT THE ELECTRICAL PLUG
16. UNDO THE BRAKE SERVO PIPE FROM THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, AND THE OIL BREATHER HOSE ON TOP OF THE ROCKER COVER.
17. REMOVE THE 10mm BOLT WHICH SHOULD BE HOLDING THE OIL FILLER TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD
18. REMOVE THE 2 FIDDLY HOSES UNDERNEATH THROTTLE BODY, AND DICONNECT THE ELECTRICAL PLUG
19. REMOVE 1 FIDDLY HOSE, WHICH IS ON THE VERY UNDERNEATH OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD (there may be also a bar, which is fastened to the block and the intake manifold. Remove that aswell)
20. MARK UP THE POSITION OF THE WIRES TO THE INJECTORS, AND DISCONNECT
21. DISCONNECT ANY OTHER ELECTRICAL CABLES IN THAT AREA
22. PULL OFF BOTH THE VACUUM HOSE FROM THROTTLE BODY TO DISTRIBUTOR, AND THE COIL LEAD
23. REMOVE THE 5 13mm NUTS WHICH HOLD THE INTAKE MANIFOLD ONTO THE CYLINDER HEAD. THE INTAKE MANIFOLD CAN THEN BE REMOVED
24. DISCONNECT THE STARTER WIRES, ALTERNATOR WIRES, REVERSING LIGHT SWITCH WIRES, AND OTHER PLUGS/ CONNECTIONS WHICH ARE PART OF THE LOOM

DON’T FORGET TO LABEL

25. DISCONNECT THE CLUTCH CABLE
26. REMOVE THE SMALL HOSE FROM THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING (the other end was one of the fiddly hoses to the throttle body)
27. REMOVE THE TOP RADIATOR HOSE
28. REMOVE THE HOSE FROM THE S.A.D (it’s the one that was connected underneath the intake manifold)
29. UNDO BOTH WATER HOSES ON THE HEADER TANK (one of these was the other fiddly hose underneath the throttle body), AND THE OTHER, SHOULD BE AN OVERFLOW FROM THE TOP OF THE RADIATOR
30. REMOVE THE 2 HEATER HOSES FROM WHERE THEY SIT JUST ABOVE THE BOTTOM ENGINE MOUNT, AND THE 1 THAT GOES TO THE REAR OF THE WATER HOUSING (underneath the distributor)
31. REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR AND THE TENSIONER BAR

YOU MAY HAVE TO UNDO THE P/S RESERVOIR AND MOUNT IT OUT OF THE WAY SOMEWHERE (I’M NOT 100%)

32. UNPLUG THE DISTRIBUTOR FROM THE IGNITION AMP, THE PLUG ON THE S.A.D, AND THE PLUG ON THE WATER HOUSING.
33. DICONNECT THE WIRES FROM THE REAR OF THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING, AND REMOVE THE EARTH WIRES ON THE TOP OF THE GEARBOX WHICH ARE FASTENED WITH A 13mm NUT
34. REMOVE THE REST OF THE OIL HOSES FROM THE ENGINE
35. THE LOOM SHOULD NOW BE ABLE TO BE LIFTED UP AND OVER THE ROCKER COVER AND HELD AGAINST THE BULKHEAD USING A COUPLE OF CABLE TIES

THE ENGINE SHOULD NOW BE FREE FROM ALL HOSES, PIPES, ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS/PLUGS.

BUT JUST CHECK

THE ENGINE SHOULD NOW BE ABLE TO ROCK BACK AND TOO ON IT’S O/S TOP ENGINE MOUNT, AND THE GEARBOX MOUNT.

THE NEXT STEPS ARE HOW TO DROP THE ENGINE:-

36. FROM THE FRONT, PUSH YOUR ENGINE CRANE IN UNTIL THE HOOK IS CENTRAL OVER THE ROCKER COVER AND ABOUT 12-18 INCHES OFF THE TOP OF THE ROCKER COVER
37. YOU’LL NEED SOMETHING STRONG TO FIT THROUGH THE LIFTING EYES ON THE CYLINDER HEAD. IDEALLY A COUPLE OF SHACKLES AND CHAIN. IF YOU HAVE CHAIN, THEN YOU WILL HAVE TO EXPERIMENT ON WHERE IN THE LINK YOU SHOULD MOUNT THE CRANE HOOK (IT’S HARD TO EXPLAIN LIKE THIS, BUT BASICALLY, WHEN YOU PUT TENSION ON THE LIFTING CHAIN, IT NEEDS TO BE LIFTING THE ENGINE AND THE GEARBOX LEVEL)
38. ONCE YOU HAVE AN EQUAL BALANCE OF TENSION ON THE CRANE, UNDO THE NUT INSIDE THE MIDDLE OF THE BATTERY TRAY
39. ALSO UNDO THE 2 13mm NUTS, AND REMOVE THE RUBBER GEARBOX MOUNT FROM THE BATTERY TRAY
40. UNDO THE SINGLE NUT IN THE O/S TOP ENGINE MOUNT, AND THEN UNDO THE 3 NUTS AT THE OTHER END OF THE ALUMINIUM MOUNT.
41. THE ENGINE SHOULD NOW BE FREE TO DROP GENTLY! A BIT AT A TIME.
42. DROP THE ENGINE UNTIL THE LARGE BOLT FOR THE GEARBOX MOUNT HAS ALMOST CLEARED THE BATTERY TRAY
43. THEN UNDO THE 2 13mm BOLTS FROM THE TOP OF THE BATTERY TRAY, AND THE 2 13mm WHICH ARE UNDERNEATH, AND A LITTLE HIDDEN
44. ONCE THE BATTERY TRAY HAS BEEN REMOVED, THE ENGINE CAN BE LOWERED COMPLETELY GENTLY!
45. THE DIFF CASE ON THE GEARBOX CAN BE A LITTLE AWKWARD CLEARING THE SUB-FRAME. AS CAN THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND THE GEAR LEVER‘L’ SHAPED BRACKET. BUT THEY WILL CLEAR
46. IF THE CRANE YOU USE IS SIMILAR TO MINE, THEN THE GEARBOX WILL REST ON THE RIGHT HAND OUTRIGGER, BUT DON’T WORRY, ONCE THE ENGINE IS ON THE GROUND, JUST PULL THE CRANE OUT AND THE GEARBOX WILL DROP OFF.
47. YOU SHOULD NOW BE ABLE TO PULL THE WHOLE UNIT OUT THROUGH THE N/S WHEEL ARCH
48. TO MAKE IT EASIER, YOU COULD REMOVE THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD (BUT I’VE NEVER HAD TO)

IF YOU REALLY STRUGGLE, JUST ROLL THE ENGINE ON ITS SIDE AND PULL THE WHOLE UNIT OUT FROM UNDERNEATH

SO THAT’S ABOUT IT. I DON’T THINK I’VE MISSED ANYTHING (FINGERS CROSSED I HAVEN’T), BUT IF I HAVE PLEASE TELL ME.

OBVIOUSLY REFITTING WILL BE THE REVERSE OF WHAT I’VE SAID.

A HAYNES MANUAL IS VERY HANDY FOR TORQUE SETTINGS, AND STUFF I MAY OF MISSED.

GOOD LUCK :)
'88 205 gti 'LONG TERM PROJECT ON TWIN 45s'
[b]'96 106 XN 55mpg 'DAILY HACK'


RE-FURBISHED 205/306 and 309 GTI REAR BEAMS IN STOCK
User avatar
jord294
Senior Member
 
Posts: 3677
Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 9:35 am
Location: flintshire. north wales

Re: PEUGEOT GTI ENGINE REMOVAL

Postby Pugman211 » Thu Jul 10, 2008 1:55 pm

well done! Pics please!! lol :P
F reg 309 Mi16, in need of a rebuild!!!!
User avatar
Pugman211
Senior Member
 
Posts: 1430
Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:42 pm
Location: Liverpool, United Kingdom

Re: PEUGEOT GTI ENGINE REMOVAL

Postby jord294 » Thu Jul 10, 2008 6:14 pm

Pugman211 wrote:well done! Pics please!! lol :P


pics?

does that mean i gotta take the engine out again :roll:
'88 205 gti 'LONG TERM PROJECT ON TWIN 45s'
[b]'96 106 XN 55mpg 'DAILY HACK'


RE-FURBISHED 205/306 and 309 GTI REAR BEAMS IN STOCK
User avatar
jord294
Senior Member
 
Posts: 3677
Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 9:35 am
Location: flintshire. north wales

Re: PEUGEOT GTI ENGINE REMOVAL

Postby Pugman211 » Thu Jul 10, 2008 7:01 pm

yup!!! hehe!! :twisted:
F reg 309 Mi16, in need of a rebuild!!!!
User avatar
Pugman211
Senior Member
 
Posts: 1430
Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:42 pm
Location: Liverpool, United Kingdom

Re: PEUGEOT GTI ENGINE REMOVAL

Postby danny309_gti » Thu Sep 11, 2008 9:47 pm

not just me that removes them from the n/s wheel arch! i managed to get the engine out with the alternator still on on a 205 gti. bit of a pain though!
1992 peugeot 309 goodwood 3dr. ongoing restoration project.
danny309_gti
Senior Member
 
Posts: 181
Joined: Wed Sep 05, 2007 5:31 pm
Location: Ripley, Derbyshire

Re: PEUGEOT GTI ENGINE REMOVAL

Postby jord294 » Fri Sep 12, 2008 7:14 am

iirc even the haynes manual for the 205 or the 309 shows engine and gearbox removal from underneath.

just so much easier than trying to pull through the top while trying to angle it about 60 degrees
'88 205 gti 'LONG TERM PROJECT ON TWIN 45s'
[b]'96 106 XN 55mpg 'DAILY HACK'


RE-FURBISHED 205/306 and 309 GTI REAR BEAMS IN STOCK
User avatar
jord294
Senior Member
 
Posts: 3677
Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 9:35 am
Location: flintshire. north wales

Re: PEUGEOT GTI ENGINE REMOVAL

Postby bigdave87 » Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:22 pm

i managed to get ma engine and box out no probs through the offside wheelarch :wink: that was after i dropped the subframe rite enough :roll:
bigdave87
Senior Member
 
Posts: 160
Joined: Sun May 25, 2008 9:36 pm
Location: greenock

Re: PEUGEOT GTI ENGINE REMOVAL

Postby bruce1972 » Thu Dec 18, 2008 7:22 pm

very well done
bruce1972
Senior Member
 
Posts: 132
Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 7:11 am
Location: wrexham brymbo

Re: PEUGEOT GTI ENGINE REMOVAL

Postby Moz_Goodwood_309 » Fri Dec 19, 2008 3:18 pm

i removed mine from under the front bumper with the gearbox still on, just roll it on its back and drag the f*cker out, didnt remove the exhaust manifold or battery tray either

its a 34mm for the hub nuts aswell (well was for mine) you'll either need a long handle on your wrench or arms like jeff capes to get them off though
Image

205 owners can suck my wide track

2006 307 HDi ~ Black

1999 Impreza RB5 ~ [color="gray"]Cool Steel[/color]

1992 309 Goodwood GTi ~ [color="green"]Pinewood Green[/color]
User avatar
Moz_Goodwood_309
Senior Member
 
Posts: 2426
Joined: Thu Jun 01, 2006 8:14 am
Location: Haverfordwest

Re: PEUGEOT GTI ENGINE REMOVAL

Postby Siert » Sat Dec 20, 2008 6:05 pm

Moz_Goodwood_309 wrote:its a 34mm for the hub nuts aswell (well was for mine)


Mine needs a 36mm socket to undo the hub nuts just like jord wrote... Mine's not a GTi but it has an XU engine so you'd expect them to all be the same.
1990 309 1.6 XLS
1978 Citroën GS Club
Siert
Senior Member
 
Posts: 583
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:49 pm
Location: Finland

Next

Return to Dummies Guide to....

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

cron